Pin It The smell of smoked haddock poaching in milk used to drift through my tiny flat every Sunday evening, back when I was still learning how to keep rice from turning into glue. I'd stand there with my wooden spoon, convinced I was doing something wrong, until one night it all came together: creamy, silky, with flakes of smoky fish suspended like little treasures. That first proper risotto taught me patience isn't just waiting, it's stirring with intention. Now it's the dish I make when I need to feel grounded again.
I made this for a friend who'd just moved to the city and claimed she hated fish. We sat at my kitchen counter with bowls balanced on our laps, and halfway through she looked up and said it tasted like comfort in a spoon. She didn't even notice it was haddock until I told her. That night I realized this dish has a way of sneaking past people's walls, turning skeptics into believers one creamy forkful at a time.
Ingredients
- Smoked haddock fillets: Go for undyed fillets, the natural pale kind, because the bright yellow ones can taste too salty and artificial, I learned that the hard way once.
- Whole milk: This is what you poach the fish in, and it becomes part of the risotto base, adding a subtle creaminess you can't get from stock alone.
- Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pot so the rice cooks evenly without shocking it with cold liquid every time you add a ladle.
- Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Arborio is easier to find, but Carnaroli holds its shape a little better if you can get your hands on it.
- Onion, garlic, and leek: The holy trinity here, they melt into the background and let the fish be the star while adding just enough sweetness and depth.
- Butter and olive oil: Starting with both gives you richness without burning, the oil protects the butter while it does its magic.
- Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated is non-negotiable, the pre-grated stuff doesn't melt the same and tastes like cardboard by comparison.
- Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: These wake everything up at the end, a pop of brightness against all that creamy comfort.
- Black pepper and sea salt: Taste as you go, the haddock and Parmesan are already salty, so go gently with extra salt.
Instructions
- Poach the haddock:
- Slide the fillets into a saucepan with the milk and bring it to a bare simmer, just a few lazy bubbles around the edges. After 5 to 7 minutes, the fish will flake easily, lift it out gently and set it aside, keeping that milky liquid because it's gold.
- Soften the aromatics:
- Warm the olive oil and butter in your widest pan, then tumble in the onion, leek, and garlic, stirring until they go soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Don't let them brown, you want them sweet and mellow.
- Toast the rice:
- Tip in the rice and stir it around for a minute or two until the edges start to look glassy. You'll hear it click against the pan, that's when you know it's ready for liquid.
- Add the poaching milk:
- Pour in all that reserved milk and stir steadily until it's mostly gone, soaked up by the rice. It'll look a bit messy at first, just keep moving it around.
- Build the risotto:
- Now start adding the hot stock, one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each addition is absorbed before the next. This takes about 20 minutes, and yes, you have to stay with it, but it's meditative once you settle in.
- Finish with fish and cheese:
- When the rice is creamy and just tender with a little bite, fold in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley. Taste it, adjust the seasoning, add a knob of butter if you're feeling indulgent.
- Rest before serving:
- Take it off the heat, cover the pan, and let it sit for 2 minutes. This lets everything settle and marry together before you spoon it into bowls.
Pin It One winter evening I served this to my dad, who usually only eats fish if it's battered and comes with chips. He finished his bowl, looked at me, and asked for seconds without a word. It was one of those quiet victories you don't forget, the kind that makes all the stirring worthwhile.
Choosing Your Fish
Undyed smoked haddock is gentler and sweeter than the neon yellow kind, which can be aggressively salty and a bit harsh. If you can only find dyed, soak it in milk for 20 minutes before poaching to mellow it out. Some fishmongers will have naturally smoked fillets behind the counter, just ask, they're worth seeking out.
Making It Your Own
If leeks aren't your thing, spring onions work beautifully and add a sharper, fresher note. A splash of cream stirred in at the end makes it almost indecent, in the best way. I've also swapped the parsley for dill when I'm feeling Scandinavian, and it's lovely with the smoke.
Serving and Storing
This is best eaten straight away while it's still loose and glossy, risotto tightens up as it cools. If you do have leftovers, add a splash of stock or milk when reheating and stir gently over low heat. You can also shape cold risotto into little cakes, coat them in breadcrumbs, and fry them for lunch the next day.
- Serve it in wide, shallow bowls so it spreads out and cools just enough to eat without burning your tongue.
- A crisp white wine like Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling cuts through the creaminess perfectly.
- Finish with an extra grating of Parmesan and a crack of black pepper right at the table.
Pin It There's something about standing at the stove, stirring slowly, watching the rice turn creamy and soft, that feels like an act of care. This risotto has become my way of saying welcome home, to others and to myself.
Recipe Questions & Answers
- → Can I use fresh haddock instead of smoked?
Yes, but the dish will lack the distinctive smoky flavor. Consider adding a pinch of smoked paprika or using smoked sea salt to compensate for the flavor difference.
- → What can I substitute for Arborio rice?
Carnaroli rice is an excellent alternative with similar starch content. In a pinch, you can use short-grain rice, though the texture won't be as creamy. Avoid long-grain rice as it won't create the proper consistency.
- → How do I know when the risotto is done?
The rice should be tender but still have a slight bite (al dente) in the center. The consistency should be creamy and flow slowly when you tilt the pan, not stiff or watery.
- → Can I make this ahead of time?
Risotto is best served immediately. However, you can poach the fish and prepare the vegetables in advance. Cook the rice just before serving for optimal texture and creaminess.
- → What wine pairs best with smoked haddock risotto?
A crisp Sauvignon Blanc or dry Riesling complements the smoky fish beautifully. Alternatively, try an unoaked Chardonnay or Italian Vermentino for a refreshing contrast to the creamy rice.
- → Can I freeze leftover risotto?
Freezing is not recommended as the rice texture becomes grainy when reheated. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and reheat gently with a splash of stock or milk.